After 58 years of memories, many of them crowded out of awareness by the sheer volume, the jostling mass, there are several that always remain salient. They are like familiar faces at the front of the crowd. One of those is of the coast north of San Francisco. It was 1969. I was 19. The Coast Highway was a two lane road threading the edge of the continent between cliffs falling away to the wide Pacific and old hills rounded by time and shaded by live oak. I was hitching on an empty road in the company of a few sheep. The scattered clouds looked like fleece. I had new camping gear and a sleeping bag I'd bought in Haight Ashbury. I threw my rucksack over a rusted barbed wire fence and climbed to the crown of a hill and laid down in the summer grass that waved in the sea wind. The sky was pale blue, as fragile as egg shell. The skirling cry of a hawk carried down the wind. I was utterly alone, free of the past, unburdened by the future, without expectations or demands. I was perfectly, completely in that moment, of that moment, and nowhere else. But the moment was unsustainable.
I slept there that night without a fire or tent, laying in the grass, at the bottom of a sea of stars. They seemed a vast adventure.
I felt like a taut string vibrating with the tension between solitude and the need for community. Those are conflicting demands I've never resolved. Perhaps the function of life isn't resolution but living within the tension like a water ouzel swimming in a mountain torrent.
The sound track of that moment is always Cat Steven's song Miles From Nowhere.
The Aokigahara is a forest of old growth at the foot of Mount Fuji. The timber stands so dense and draped with vines it's difficult to find your way. The shadows are perennial and the forest darkly beautiful. The Japanese call it the sea of trees and many have drowned there.
The sacred mountain stands above the forest--a mountain of light above a sea of darkness. Perhaps its proximity to the sacred is the reason the Aokigahara has been called the perfect place to die in Wataru Tsurumui's handbook of death, The Complete Book of Suicide. Among the trees the dead outnumber the living and ghosts are so common that Buddhist monks annually perform the rite of exorcism to silence their voices and keep the dead from calling to the living.
The Aokigahara is where impoverished families traditionally left the very young and the very old whom they could no longer support. They left them to die among the trees. It was not a quick death. It's easy to imagine their pain impressed into the growth of trees like rings. Many who come to the forest now die by their own hand. Their bodies are often found hanging from trees or their bones found scattered by animals. They leave behind them the detritus of their lives--wallets, rail passes, credit cards, sometimes wads of cash as if to pay their way. The cab drivers from nearby villages claim they can tell which fares they take to the edge of the forest will not return. The local police take into protective custody anyone seen walking among the trees in a suit. The habits of a lifetime aren't easy to shed, even for the dead. The forest has become more visited as the economy collapses and middle aged businessmen lose hope.
There's a forest station in the Aokigahara. The rangers often find bodies among the trees and bring what remains to the station until the villagers collect them for burial. There's a special room with two beds. The dead aren't allowed to sleep alone for fear their ghosts might wander. One of the rangers spends the night in the spare bed. I can't imagine their job description or with what tact the interviewer approaches the rather special circumstance of working in the Aokigahara.
Tracing the tragetory of Bing from the path of Microsoft research.